GIANT NOs:
NO LIQUID CHLORINE
NO LIQUID MURATIC ACID (Lowers PH)
Your pool service will try to use the above because they are cheap at the pool distributor. Fiberglass pools gelcoat is porous, opposite of concrete pools which only the paint / tile is waterproof. This liquid gets inside the pores and can cause bumps if it becomes trapped by dirt or calcium deposit.
WATER LEVEL & DRAINING:
NEVER attempt to empty your pool of water. Doing so may cause a collapse of the walls from ground surface pressure. Always maintain a water level of at least four inches above the bottom of the skimmer opening.
- If water level is above the top of the skimmer opening, the filter system well is unable to skim the floating debris from the pool surface
- If water level is below the bottom of the skimmer opening, your pump may lose its prime.
To drain the pool if the water level is too high, ensure the pump is on and utilize the spigot at the equipment (usually above the pump) to drain water. Draining water can also assist in diluting and removing contaminated water, see the “BALANCING CHEMICALS FOR SALT POOLS” section.
THE IMPORTANCE OF PROPER CHEMICAL BALANCES
Upon completion of your pool, our employee has ensured the proper balance of your pool. In this process, 16 oz. of a sequestering agent (“Metal Magnet” or “Mineral Out”) was used because of the unusual amounts of minerals and hardness of our local water. We STRONGLY RECOMMEND continued use of this product per instructions on the back of the bottle to remove these minerals and help prevent staining and scaling at least monthly. Failure to use a metal chelating product may result in staining the pool walls which are not covered by your pool warranty! GIANT NO NOs: NO LIQUID CHLORINE and NO LIQUID MURATIC ACID (Lowers PH) Your pool service will try to use the above because they are cheaper than powder form. Use of either will cause blisters to form due to gelcoat is porous.
Recommended Ranges for Desired Water Balance:
Salt Pools
Chlorine 1 – 3 ppm
pH 7.2 – 7.8
Alkalinity 80 – 120 ppm
Calcium Hardness 180 – 250 ppm (high calcium hardness main cause of stains)
Stabilizer 60-100 ppm
Understanding Salt Systems
AquaRite uses electrolytic technology to convert a small amount of salt (1 tsp/gallon) into a virtually endless supply of fresh, pure chlorine. On average, a salt system needs to be set to 40%-65% depending on the amount of sun the pool gets and the ambient temperature outside. This % is based on a pump running between 12pm-6pm daily. As temperatures rise, you may need to extend the pump timer to 10am – 6pm daily and/or increase the salt system % rating up to 80% (Test every 4 hours until you get chlorine around 1 no higher or lower). Try extending pump timer first an additional two hours in the morning, and then if it is still too low chlorine, increase the Salt System to 5%.
Or to keep chlorine levels at a minimum, we also recommend light use of Potassium Monopersulfate an oxidizing shock / agent (add when chlorine demand is high to help fight algae without increasing chlorine.) during high use to clear and destroy chloramines. DO not use Cal-hypo or any other Chlorine (bleach) shock. Buy on Amazon.
pH Control
pH is the measure of acidity or alkalinity of the water. The maintenance of the proper pH level is very important as it is responsible for the bacterial action of the chlorine, swimmer comfort, and prevents deterioration of the equipment and the pool itself.
Frequency of Testing:
Chlorine and pH levels should be checked 2-3 times per week. Total Alkalinity, Phosphate (might require a special test strip), Calcium Hardness and Stabilizer are all integral components of your pool chemistry and should be checked at least once a month. Consult a Pool Chemistry Book on specific consequences of the above steps. Do not swim if pool chemistry is outside recommended ranges!
BALANCING CHEMICALS FOR SALT POOLS (Chemicals listed below are from BioGuard)
Calcium Hardness – Range from 180 – 250
If above 250, do not add any chemicals. Instead, displace the water in the pool by draining water using the spigot at the equipment and adding water to the shallow end of pool using a hose at the same time and same flow rate (GPM in = GPM out so you don’t drain the pool just swapping out bad water for new tap water).
If below 180, then add BP 300
Total Chlorine – Range from 1 – 3
If chlorine is above 3%, then put on auto 0%, Do not swim until below 3.
If chlorine is below .5, then Super Chlorinate salt system at 100% for 1-2 days or increase salt system %. Recheck every 4-6 hours.
Free Chlorine – Range from 1 -3
If Chlorine is higher than 3, do nothing. Let it come down on its own but do not swim.
If Chlorine is low, shock or salt system 100% for 1-2 days.
DO NOT USE LIQUID CHLORINE, only granular shock (Potassium Monopersulfate) for fiberglass pools (do not use algae fighting expensive shock this is usually copper dust which will stain your pool, use Potassium Monopersulfate shock which might increase calcium levels but lower risk of metal staining).
pH – Range from 7.2 – 7.8
If pH is low or high, check total alkalinity
First, get total alkalinity in balanced, then pH
If pH is above 8.4, add Lo-N-Slo, add 1.5 lbs. at a time. Do not swim until 7.8 or lower. You risk bumps in your gelcoat with PH this high as different water depths will have different PH readings.
If pH is between 6.8 – 8.4, add PH + or PH – as needed to get in range (buy granular bags of PH+ and PH- at Walmart or lowes or amazon)
If pH is below 6.2, add 1 lbs. of BP 200 and retest in 3 hours. Do not swim.
Total Alkalinity – Range 80 – 120
Alkalinity must be in range before adjusting pH
If alkalinity is above 180, add Lo-N-Slo 1.5 lbs. at A TIME
If alkalinity is between 80 – 120, do nothing
If alkalinity is 40 or below, add 1.5 lbs. of BP 100, then retest in 6 hours.
Cyanuric Acid (Stabilizer) – Range between 60-100
If high, do nothing. Let it come down on its own or swap out pool water at same rate in as leaving so you don’t drain the pool.
If 60 or lower, add whole bottle of Salt Scape Stabilizer
Salt
If salt machine is reading 2700 or below, add 1 bag of salt.
If the low salt indicator is on, it may indicate you need salt.
If the high salt indicator is on, you may have high salt. You can displace the water as explained in the Calcium section.
If the cell is visibly dirty with a white buildup, clean the cell with Salt Cell Cleaner and reset the cell by navigating to the settings and resetting the cell.
Phosphate Guidelines
Make sure all chemicals are in balance.
If you have algae, get chlorine up first using Potassium Monopersulfate shock (Non-Chlorine oxidizing shock can be purchased on Amazon or at a pool store).
Purchase a Phosphate test strip on Amazon or have a local pool store test your water.
Follow Phosphate Remover instructions on the bottle. If you have chickens, you must also test for nitrates (test strip from a fish store as same test strip for nitrates as used in fish tanks, or Amazon).
After 48 hours, clean the filter and retest the chemicals. Many times, Stains and Phosphates will go away then come right back few days later. This is due to the filter not being fully cleaned. Use a good filter cleaner spray bottle and clean the filter after stain treatments or purchase a new filter and use this one for backup. This is the root frustration of a lot of customers as they spend time and money fixing a water chemistry issue just to see it come back few days later due to the filter still full of dissolved solids or phosphates.
POOL CARE
VACUUMING:
The water should be clear enough so that the deepest point is visible from the surface.
- Turn pump on
- Attach pole to vacuum sweep head and end of vacuum hose
- Hold vacuum hose in front of jet or immerse end long enough to allow water to enter the hose. Repeat until most air is eliminated from the hose.
- Insert the tip of the vacuum hose in through the skimmer opening and then into the hole in the center of the skimmer.
- A small amount of air left in the hose will pass through the pump usually without the pump losing prime.
- Vacuum in slow easy motions so that the water is not stirred up enough to impair your vision.
- After you have finished vacuuming, turn the pump off and remove the vacuum equipment from the pool. Storing the vacuum hose in the sun will drastically reduce the life of the hose.
CLEANING OF THE FIBERGLASS:
Use a damp sponge or rag to wipe clean dust or dirt marks. Scotch rite pads made by 3M do an excellent job. Or if you have stubborn spots on the coping or around the water line, most non-abrasive household cleaners may be used. We recommend Soft Scrub.
If that doesn’t work, use “Jack’s Magic Stain ID kit” found online or at the pool store which has 4 samples of the common stain removers to determine if it is an organic stain or metal stain. Once identified, purchase more of that stain remover and follow steps on the bottle.
For stubborn stains that are not removed with the above two methods, use a mild abrasive cleanser on a piece of very fine 1000 grit or higher wet and dry sandpaper and very lightly scrub a test spot 1” square and stop if you see blue gelcoat cloud meaning you are sanding the gelcoat. DO NOT USE BRILLO PADS OR ACETONE.
CLEANING DECKS, WALKWAYS AND PATIOS:
Keep all areas adjacent to pool as clean as possible. Dirt, dust, debris on these areas are blown or tracked into the pool increasing chlorine demand. Hosing off these areas with water is the accepted method of cleaning. Occasionally, in the summer, you may encounter algae growing on the deck. Should this occur, wash the area with 1-part algaecide solution to 8 parts of water or a diluted chlorine solution. Rinse thoroughly after cleaning.
CLEANING FILTER CARTRIDGE:
INDICATIONS OF A DIRTY FILTER:
- When pressure increases over start-up pressure
- When the water unit pressure seems reduced or air bubbles appear
FREQUENCY OF CLEANING:
- It is recommended that the cartridge is thoroughly cleaned twice a year. This may prevent major build-up of stubborn residues which will cause inefficient filtering or ineffective filtering operations.
TO CLEAN THE FILTER:
- Turn pump off
- Release pressure
- Remove filter components as necessary for removal of cartridge. If difficult, try a rocking motion or twisting motion.
- Hold cartridge in an up-right position and with a garden hose equipped with a pressure nozzle, spray downward into the pleats flushing the debris from the cartridge. DO NOT use a brush on the filter cartridge.
- Reinstall the cartridge into the compartment making sure the bottom of the filter fits snugly in the bottom of the filter compartment.
- Prime the filter by reattaching the lid and allowing water to shoot out of the pressure release valve.
OTHER FILTER PROBLEMS AND SOLUTIONS:
- If the cartridge is coated with an oily or greasy substance due to sunscreen, body oil, or pollen, these oils can be removed by soaking filter cartridge in detergent soap solution or preferably TSP (tri-sodium phosphate). Rinse thorough after soaking in either solution. This problem can be prevented by using Pool Complete Weekly.
- If the cartridge is coated with a hard, solid material it may indicate a calcium build-up on the fabric. Soak the cartridge in a solution of 4 parts water and 1-part muriatic acid in a plastic container for 2-4 hours. Rinse thorough after soaking.
- If the cartridge is coated with algae, soak in a solution of 1-part chlorine (liquid chlorine fine for this) and 1-part water. Rinse thorough after soaking. You can also shock the pool by adding one pound of powder Potassium Monopersulfate shock to the skimmer and rinsing the filter off after 30 minutes.
- If the filter seems to be stained, try all steps in the above order only. Doing Step 2 before Step 1 will cause oils and lotions to solidify.
LADDER AND RAIL MAINTENANCE AND CLEANING:
WHEN ADDING CHLORINE PRODUCTS TO POOL WATER, DO NOT ADD NEAR RAILS AND LADDERS.
STAINLESS STEEL PRODUCTS:
Stainless steels are iron-based alloys that contain chromium, which combines with oxygen to form an invisible protective film on surface: however, it is not entirely stainless like it’s name says it is stain LESS. With proper care, your stainless-steel pool rails and ladders with provide years of service by doing the following:
- Regularly inspect and thoroughly clean mounting hardware, replace when needed. Corrosion is common in crevices, weld points, under gaskets and bolt heads where small amounts of liquid can collect and become stagnant.
- Routine cleaning is the only way to maintain the protective film on your stainless-steel pool rails and ladders and prevent rust. Rust and corrosion occur when contaminants become trapped and embedded in the protective film.
- Use warm water, a gentle soap or detergent and a soft cloth to briskly rub along the polish lines of the steel. Polishing with cotton cloth and Windex-type product with restore luster. In the event of discoloration or rust, Boni Ami or equivalent, applied with wet cotton cloth works well. Always be sure to thoroughly rinse after cleaning.
- So-called “stainless Steel cleaners” may scratch the surface and contain bleach, which can dull the surface.
- For stubborn stains, try Copper-Brite, Revere Ware Cleaner, Sta-Clean, Stainless Shine and Twinkle.
- For extra stubborn stains (they may scratch surface), try 3M Stainless Steel Cleaner, Soft Scrub.
MARINE GRADE STAINLESS STEEL PRODUCTS:
Follow the above procedures for inspecting and maintaining. To clean, you may use alcohol or other common household cleaners such as Formula 409, Lysol or Pine-Sol.
STAIN TREATMENT – SALT SYSTEM
1.) Turn off chlorination in the chlorination menu on your salt system, and get the chlorine reading to 1 ppm or below.
2.) Clean the filter and turn the pump back on,
3.) Add one bottle of Erase Iron Stain Remover (BioGuard Chemical) to pool on the stained area.
4.) Brush the pool and the stained areas thoroughly.
5.) After one hour, add 16 oz. of the sequestering agent (Metal Out, Pool Magnet Plus)
6.) Set the pool to run for two days straight, 48 hours.
7.) Vacuum the pool and thoroughly clean the filter again.
8.) Balance all chemicals except chlorine (should still be at 0) and bring stabilizer to 100ppm.
9.) Turn on the salt system, navigate to super chlorinate, and set it to run for 96 hours. The pump should run continuously until this step is complete.
10.) Every 24 hours test the chemicals until the chlorine reaches a level of 3ppm. Once this occurs, turn off super chlorinate and set the pump back to it’s original schedule.
POOL EQUIPMENT MAINTENANCE
PUMP OR MOTOR:
NEVER run your pump dry. The warranty on your pump and motor is null and void if the pump has run dry. An automatic timer is provided with your pool to turn the pump on and off daily. Optimum time for running the pump and filter is 7 hours a day.
Your pump may turnover approximately 3,000 gallons an hour during operation. Since algae will tend to grow in warm stagnant water, the pump should be running during daylight hours when the sun is the hottest to prevent algae growth.
Periodically, the leaf basket of the pump should be cleaned. Upon removing the pump cover, clean the O-ring thoroughly to prevent debris from causing air to enter the system.
FILTER EQUIPMENT:
Consult your manufacturer’s instruction on the operation, maintenance and warranty.
AQUARITE SALT CONTROL SYSTEM
A Quick Reference Guide by Hayward is provided with each installation. However, many customers call us about resetting the units of measure from Celsius which can be done as described below. It is also found in this Hayward Quick.
TO RESET AND CHANGE UNITS OF MEASURE FROM CELSIUS 2.7 OR 3.0 ON SALT SYSTEM:
Put in Auto Position
Hit the Diagnostic button once (black button by display screen)
Move switch to Super Chlorinate and turn back to Auto.
Screen will flash and should show 2500 – 3000
To reset your Salt System maintenance Cell Cleaning light, Press OK > System Settings > Service Settings > Reset Cell